Votre manager est-il toxique ? Six signes qui ne trompent pas…

Source: The Conversation – France (in French) – By George Kassar, Full-time Faculty, Research Associate, Performance Analyst, Ascencia Business School

Si la gestion de la performance n’est pas mise en œuvre de manière adéquate, elle peut devenir un formidable outil pour démotiver, épuiser et pousser au départ vos collaborateurs. PeopleImages.comYuri A/Shutterstock

La recherche en gestion de performance offre une gamme complète de pratiques managériales toxiques à appliquer sans modération pour faire fuir les talents les plus précieux. Si ces conseils sont à prendre au second degré, ces pratiques restent bien réelles dans la gestion quotidienne de certains managers.


Qui a dit que la principale ressource d’une entreprise, et son véritable avantage concurrentiel, résidait dans ses employés, leur talent ou leur motivation ?

Après tout, peut-être souhaitez-vous précisément vider vos bureaux, décourager durablement vos collaborateurs et saboter méthodiquement votre capital humain.

Dans ce cas, la recherche en gestion de performance vous offre généreusement tout ce dont vous avez besoin : une gamme complète de pratiques managériales toxiques à appliquer sans modération pour faire fuir les talents les plus précieux.

En fait, la gestion de la performance, issue des pratiques de rationalisation au début du XXe siècle, est devenue aujourd’hui un élément clé du management moderne. En théorie, elle permet d’orienter l’action des équipes, de clarifier les attentes et de contribuer au développement individuel. En pratique, si elle n’est pas mise en œuvre de manière adéquate, elle peut également devenir un formidable outil pour démotiver, épuiser et pousser au départ vos collaborateurs les plus précieux.

Voici comment :

Management par objectifs flous

Commencez par fixer des objectifs vagues, irréalistes ou contradictoires. Surtout, évitez de leur donner du sens ou de les relier à une stratégie claire, et évidemment ne pas leur assurer les ressources appropriées. Bref, adoptez les « vrais » objectifs SMART : Stressants, Mesurés arbitrairement, Ambigus, Répétés sans contexte, Totalement déconnectés du terrain !

Selon les recherches en psychologie organisationnelle, cette approche garantit anxiété, confusion et désengagement parmi vos équipes, augmentant significativement leur intention de quitter l’entreprise.


Abonnez-vous dès aujourd’hui !

Chaque lundi, recevez gratuitement des informations utiles pour votre carrière et tout ce qui concerne la vie de l’entreprise (stratégie, RH marketing, finance…).


Le silence est d’or

Éviter toute forme de dialogue et de communication. Ne donnez jamais de feedback. Et si vraiment vous ne pouvez pas l’éviter, faites-le rarement, de manière irrégulière, strictement détachée du travail, et portez-le plutôt sur une critique de la personne. L’absence d’un retour d’information régulier, axé sur les tâches et exploitable, laisse les employés dans l’incertitude et les surprend au moment de l’évaluation et mine progressivement leur engagement.

Plus subtilement encore, c’est la manière dont vos employés interprètent vos intentions, et le feedback que vous leur donnez, qui compte le plus. Attention, lorsqu’il est perçu comme ayant une intention constructive, il risque de renforcer la motivation à apprendre et l’engagement. Mais lorsque ce même feedback est perçu comme incité par des intérêts personnels du manager (attribution égoïste), il produit l’effet inverse : démotivation, repli et départ.

« Procès » d’évaluations de performance

Organisez des entretiens annuels où vous ne relevez que les erreurs et oubliez totalement les réussites ou les efforts invisibles. Soyez rigide, critique, et concentrez-vous uniquement sur les faiblesses. Prenez soin de vous attribuer tout le mérite lorsque l’équipe réussit – après tout, sans vous, rien n’aurait été possible. En revanche, lorsque les résultats ne sont pas à la hauteur, n’hésitez pas à pointer les erreurs, à individualiser la faute et à rappeler que « vous aviez pourtant prévenu ».

Ce type d’évaluation de performance, mieux vaut le qualifier de procès punitif, garantit une démotivation profonde et accélère la rotation des équipes.




À lire aussi :
Détruire une carrière professionnelle, nouvelle forme de harcèlement moral


Compétition interne poussée à l’extrême

Favorisez une culture de rivalité entre collègues : diffusez régulièrement des classements internes, récompensez uniquement les meilleurs, éliminer systématiquement les moins bien classés, dévaloriser l’importance de la coopération, et laisser la concurrence interne faire le reste. Après tout, ce sont les caractéristiques essentielles de la « célèbre » méthode que Jack Welch a popularisée chez General Electric.

Si vous remarquez un possible élan de motivation à court terme, ne vous inquiétez pas, les effets de la « Vitality Curve » de Jack Welch seront, à terme, beaucoup plus néfastes que bénéfiques. La féroce concurrence interne vous sera un excellent outil de détruire la confiance entre coéquipiers, de créer une atmosphère toxique durable et d’augmenter le nombre de départs volontaires.

Ignorez le bien-être : surtout, restez sourd

Nous avons déjà établi qu’il fallait éviter le feedback et tout dialogue. Mais si, par malheur, un échange survient, surtout n’écoutez pas les plaintes ni les signaux d’alerte liés au stress ou à l’épuisement. Ne proposez aucun soutien, aucun accompagnement, et bien sûr, ignorez totalement le droit à la déconnexion.

En négligeant la santé mentale et en refusant d’aider vos employés à trouver du sens à leur travail – notamment lorsqu’ils effectuent des tâches perçues comme ingrates ou difficiles – vous augmentez directement l’éventualité de burn-out et d’absentéisme chronique

De plus, privilégiez systématiquement des primes de rémunération très variables et mal conçues : cela renforcera l’instabilité salariale des employés et tuera ce qui reste d’engagement.

L’art d’user sans bruit

Envie d’aller plus loin dans l’art de faire fuir vos équipes ? Inspirez-vous de ce que la recherche classe parmi les trois grandes formes de violence managériale. Il s’agit de pratiques souvent banalisées, telles que micro-gestion, pression continue, absence de reconnaissance ou isolement, qui génèrent une souffrance durable. Ces comportements, parfois invisibles mais répétés, finissent par user les salariés en profondeur, jusqu’à les pousser à décrocher, mentalement puis physiquement jusqu’à rupture.


Évidemment, ces conseils sont à prendre au second degré !

Pourtant, les pratiques toxiques décrites ici restent malheureusement bien réelles dans la gestion quotidienne de certains managers. Si l’objectif est véritablement de retenir les talents et d’assurer le succès durable d’une entreprise, il devient indispensable d’orienter la gestion de la performance autour du sens, de l’équité et du développement authentique du potentiel humain.

The Conversation

George Kassar ne travaille pas, ne conseille pas, ne possède pas de parts, ne reçoit pas de fonds d’une organisation qui pourrait tirer profit de cet article, et n’a déclaré aucune autre affiliation que son organisme de recherche.

ref. Votre manager est-il toxique ? Six signes qui ne trompent pas… – https://theconversation.com/votre-manager-est-il-toxique-six-signes-qui-ne-trompent-pas-260438

Sound recordings can give us an animals’ eye view of the war in Ukraine

Source: The Conversation – UK – By Janine Natalya Clark, Professor of Transitional Justice and International Criminal Law, University of Birmingham

The documentary film, Animals in War, tells the story of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine from the point of view of the animals affected by the conflict. Sota Cinema Group

The 2025 Tribeca Film Festival in New York included a world premiere of War Through the Eyes of Animals (also known as Animals in War). The documentary gives an animals-eye view of Russia’s war against Ukraine and features the wartime experiences of several different species, including a cow, a rabbit and a wolf.

Throughout history, animals have been affected by war and exposed to its many dangers. Despite this, war is usually discussed from human-centred perspectives that marginalise animal experiences.

My own work on the Russia-Ukraine war uses sound as a way of thinking about some of the war’s environmental impacts and the experiences of animals. The idea that sound can provide ecological information is not new. Research has shown how the sounds, for example, of plants and animals can tell us a lot about how their environment is changing. What is new is exploring this in the context of war.

Trailer for War Through the Eyes of Animals.

For my research project I interviewed more than 30 Ukrainians, including botanists, ornithologists, herpetologists (who study reptiles and amphibians) and a marine biologist. I also asked them to make short recordings of their local soundscapes.

A scientist working in Tuzlivski Lymany National Park in the Odesa region of southern Ukraine made a recording of Iranian Shahed drones flying over his office and explained that these “abnormal” sounds greatly affect some species of birds.

Shahed drones.
Interviewee recording879 KB (download)

In 2024, for example, there was a large colony of nesting flamingos in Tuzlivski Lymany. However, noise caused them to abandon their nests, leaving their eggs vulnerable to predators. No chicks were born in the flamingo colony that year. Research in peacetime has found that drones can lead to significant breeding failures among some birds.

A herpetologist, meanwhile, shared his recording of natterjack toads and European tree frogs that he made in the Volyn region of northern Ukraine the year before the start of the full-scale invasion in 2022.

Amphibian chorus.
Interviewee recording985 KB (download)

What he wanted to convey was that he may never hear this particular “amphibian chorus” again. The area is close to the border with Belarus, and it is unclear what impact the construction of Ukrainian defensive fortifications has had on local animal and plant life.

I also asked interviewees whether the war has helped nature in any way. In response, they frequently talked about reduced anthropogenic (human-made) pressures on the environment. An example is the ban on hunting, first imposed at the start of the war in eastern Ukraine in 2014.

Summer meadow.
Interviewee recording281 KB (download)

One interviewee recorded a nighttime summer meadow in Kyiv region and captured the distant sound of a fox calling. The prohibition on hunting has enabled foxes to thrive

Another interviewee made a recording near the Kaniv Nature Reserve in central Ukraine. Alongside birdsong are the barking sounds of roe deer, another species that has benefited from the hunting ban.

Of course, such population increases are not necessarily beneficial to wider ecosystems, as ecologist Aldo Leopold discussed in his classic Thinking like a Mountain (1949). Leopold found that uncontrolled numbers of deer due to the mass killing of wolves in the United States during the first part of the 20th century took a huge toll on the environment. “I have seen every edible bush and seedling browsed”, he wrote”, “first to anaemic desuetude, and then to death”.

The fact that the Russia-Ukraine war has contributed to reducing some anthropogenic pressures does not in any way minimise the enormity of harm done to nature, including forests, soil and marine ecosystems. Yet it is too narrow to think about the environment only in terms of harms done to it.

Nature’s recovery

The Chernobyl Exclusion Zone (CEZ) created following the Chernobyl nuclear disaster in 1986 is often cited as an example of nature’s ability to recover. One of the ornithologists whom I interviewed made a recording of birdsong from within the CEZ, in northern Ukraine.

Chornobyl.
Interviewee recording1.97 MB (download)

When I listen to the recording I am reminded of research which has found that birds have adapted physiologically to radiation exposure within the CEZ.

Another example of recovery relates to the destruction of the Kakhovka dam in June 2023. When Russian aggressors breached the dam, water drained from the Kakhovka reservoir, leaving it dry. Today, there is a young willow forest growing on the site of the former reservoir.

To emphasise the resilience of nature, one of my interviewees made an audio recording from the Yelanets Steppe Nature Reserve in the Mykolaiv region in southern Ukraine. Against the acoustic backdrop of wind gusting through the grasslands are the repeated calls of the common pheasant.

Common Pheasant.
Interviewee recording2.18 MB (download)

These sounds of the wild steppe awakening in early spring, the interviewee stressed, are also the sounds of nature getting on with life.

Birdsong is clearly audible in a recording made by soldiers near the frontline in Kharkiv region.

Near frontline.
Made by Ukrainian soldiers801 KB (download)

Similarly, birds continued to sing over the trenches during the first world war. Some interviewees also pointed out that certain species of birds, including cormorants, herons and white storks, have adapted to the sounds of war, becoming less sensitive to them.

Justice and reparations

I am particularly interested in the significance of nature’s sounds in the context of transitional justice – and especially reparations.

Discourse on environmental reparations focuses on repairing harms done to nature – and sounds can provide useful insights into some of these harms.

But what is missing from existing scholarship on reparations is attention to some of the ways that ecosystems can and do regenerate and recover. Moving forward, therefore, it is essential to think about how reparations can support (and not disturb) these natural ecosystem processes.

The Conversation

Janine Natalya Clark receives funding for this research from the Leverhulme Trust (RF-2024-137)

ref. Sound recordings can give us an animals’ eye view of the war in Ukraine – https://theconversation.com/sound-recordings-can-give-us-an-animals-eye-view-of-the-war-in-ukraine-260519

From robotic trucks to smart bins: how technology is helping cities sort their waste problem

Source: The Conversation – UK – By Breno Nunes, Associate professor in Sustainable Operations Management, Aston University

Since early January 2025, residents of Birmingham in the UK have been caught in the dispute between the city council and the Unite union over pay, terms and conditions for waste and recycling collectors. The latest attempt at talks broke down in acrimony.

At one point during the crisis, there were 17 tonnes of uncollected rubbish in Birmingham. Businesses and residents face public health and safety risks including pest infestations and the spread of disease and fire hazards.

These have tainted the reputation of the city and hurt its chances of hosting events and attracting visitors. The news of cat-sized rats in Birmingham has made headlines from the US to Australia.




Read more:
Birmingham bin strikes: a threat to public health


Workers’ pay is being negotiated between the union and the council in Birmingham. However, this is a fairly dangerous job and, with an ageing population, it may become more difficult to hire new workers. We argue that a more fair approach would be to use technology to help transition workers (including through training) towards better paid and safer positions.

This would be an opportunity to build more sustainable waste management in the UK’s second largest city and beyond. Advances in robotics and AI are making automated refuse collection a reality, for example. Some cities in the US, Canada and parts of Europe already use robotics-enabled equipment in their refuse collection systems.

A shortage of skilled personnel threatens the transition towards a greener economy. People have to be at the centre of the solution. In this case, skilled workers are needed to keep different types of waste separate and so improve recycling rates.

The recovery value can be high for certain products such as electronics, automotive parts, as well as materials like plastic and metal. This is still difficult for machines to do.

Smart bins and automated trucks

Birmingham city council has already proposed improvements to waste collection. Based on publicly available information, it aims at increasing the number of rubbish trucks, reducing the number of collection days and retraining refuse collectors. But it has yet to take full advantage of existing advanced technologies.

The plan, for instance, proposes improving communication with residents about collection day via text messages. While welcome, this is rather basic. It was only during the pandemic that all recycling centres started using online booking systems. Prior to that, endless queues were common – wasting time and increasing emissions with traffic jams.

We argue that a whole-systems approach is needed to make the most of the opportunities new technology affords. Automated side loader trucks and smart bins are already used in various cities – the latter use sensors to monitor waste volumes and predict when collection is needed. The council could analyse the strengths and weaknesses of each technology in different areas of the city.

Side loader trucks, which can lift up large bins and empty them, automate a dangerous process and are already considered a mature technology, used in cities across the US, Canada and Sweden. These trucks are difficult to drive in narrow streets. But, where appropriate, their benefits include increased productivity, reduced collection costs and greater worker safety.

Sensors embedded in the vehicle, including from cameras, can provide data on the distribution of waste in different areas. This helps to produce a waste map. AI algorithms can analyse the data and provide customised collection schedules that optimise the use of trucks in the collection fleet. The algorithms can learn and be continuously revised to improve the service.

In busy areas of the city, information from smart bins can prevent rubbish accumulating. Advanced machine learning techniques can then be employed to further optimise the collection schedule by detecting, for instance, anomalies such as a sudden increase in some types of waste. Such systems can provide more adaptable solutions and increase the productivity of officers.

Recent improvements in imaging techniques and chemical analysis can help to identify different waste materials and allow automatic sorting, and the identification of hazardous waste.

Other technological solutions, such as the use of smart underground large storage containers as communal bins allow for less frequent collections, but they may require significant changes to both infrastructure and trucks. These already exist in parts of Spain.

Pneumatic waste collection systems have been tested in Wembley, a suburb in northwest London. In this system, waste is sucked through underground pipes by a fan system at speeds approaching 50mph to a central point, where it is stored in airtight containers until further treatment takes place. More than 30 countries adopt this system.

Educating the public is vital too. Reducing waste in the first place is a good way to save money and would reduce pressure on waste collection systems.

As far as Birmingham goes, overlooking advanced technologies won’t make the council’s task of satisfying residents and waste collection teams any easier. We think a lot of people would be happier to see more robotics trucks and smart bins than more rats in the streets.

The Conversation

Breno Nunes receives funding from InnovateUK for a Knowledge Transfer Partnership (KTP) project on sustainable manufacturing strategy.

Roberto Castro Alamino does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

ref. From robotic trucks to smart bins: how technology is helping cities sort their waste problem – https://theconversation.com/from-robotic-trucks-to-smart-bins-how-technology-is-helping-cities-sort-their-waste-problem-260023

Charges against Canadian Army members in anti-government terror plot raise alarms about right-wing extremism

Source: The Conversation – Canada – By Kawser Ahmed, Adjunct Professor at the Political Science department, University of Winnipeg

This week, the RCMP arrested four men in Québec, alleging they were attempting to create an anti-government militia.

The RCMP used the umbrella term “Ideologically Motivated Violent Extremism” to categorize the suspects. Essentially, this means the RCMP alleges they share violent right-wing ideologies. Their arrests raise questions about whether Canada’s problem with right-wing extremism is getting worse.

The group is accused of storing explosive devices, dozens of firearms and thousands of rounds of ammunition. The RCMP seized all of it, and the four suspects are due to appear in Québec City court next week. Three are charged with facilitating a terrorist activity, along with weapon-possession offences.

The suspects include active members of the Canadian Armed Forces, according to the RCMP. Given the allegations that they were planning terrorist attacks for an extremist militia, the inclusion of army personnel might not be surprising.

But it could represent a stark manifestation of a deeply troubling and accelerating trend: the rise of violent right-wing extremism and anti-government or anti-authority radicalization within western democracies. This is a shift dramatically exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic as many seized the opportunity to spread anti-government ideas based on restricted freedoms.

Raphaël Lagacé, one of the suspects charged by the RCMP.
(Instagram)

Canada not immune to violent movements

Canada often thinks it’s safe from violent movements, but it’s becoming more vulnerable. This is especially evident in places like Québec, where there has been ideological conflict in the past, including the massacre at a Québec mosque in January 2017.

However, the threat is also clear on a national level.

According to a Canadian intelligence report, far-right extremist groups actively recruit past and present members of the military and police.

There’s also a long-running pattern of militia activity in North America. Activities in the United States show how dangerous it is when violent ideologies spread.

This includes the nihilistic doctrine of accelerationism, which is a white-supremacist belief that the current state of society cannot be fixed and that the only way to repair it is to destroy and collapse the “system”.

There are versions of accelerationism on both the right and left.

The rise in right-wing extremism globally

The charges in Québec shine a spotlight on the global trend of rising right-wing extremism that has been worsening since 2016.

In the past decade, white supremacist, anti-government and militia groups have gained traction. That’s due in part to online echo chambers, growing political and social divisions and the rise and rapid spread of conspiracy theories.

The U.S. is the best and most immediate example. Groups like the Oath Keepers and Proud Boys are well-known, playing a significant role in the Jan. 6 insurrection at the U.S. Capitol. These groups are keen to recruit current and former military and law enforcement officers because they know how to handle weapons and use explosives.

In 2023, the FBI repeatedly said domestic violent extremism continues to pose a threat, especially racially or ethnically motivated extremists and anti-government groups.

Accelerationism is behind a lot of this violence. It underpins efforts to speed up the disintegration of society through targeted violence and technology, with the goal of starting a racial war or civil war to bring down liberal democratic institutions.

The Base is an example of this trend. It’s a multinational, trans-border white supremacist network that supports violence to create chaos.

But this is not just a North American problem. Before Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, far-right members of the Ukrainian Azov Regiment reportedly drew western extremists to their cause, many of whom were looking for paramilitary training, possibly to use against their own governments.

Canada: The Base, the ‘freedom convoy’

This global tide doesn’t leave Canada out. The arrests in Québec are the most recent and concerning example.

Patrik Mathews, a former Canadian Army reservist from Winnipeg, was involved in a well-known Canadian case that involved recruiting for The Base, as well as a plot to harm a journalist, Canadian investigative journalist Ryan Thorpe. His reports in the Winnipeg Free Press exposed Mathew’s membership in the The Base.

Mathew fled to the U.S. in 2019. The FBI subsequently arrested him and charged him with gun-related crimes and taking part in a riot at a Virginia protest. Mathew is now serving a long prison sentence for his part in what the FBI called a “neo-Nazi plot to instigate a race war in the United States.”

These examples clearly show how extremists work within national military systems to learn tactical capabilities.

The so-called “freedom convoy” occupation of Ottawa in 2022 also showed troubling connections between radicalism and some parts of the Canadian Armed Forces.

Investigations found numerous active and former Army members were either actively involved with the convoy or donated a lot of money. Some were found to have posted extreme anti-government views online. Some Army members are also vulnerable to the right-wing ideologies of a “white-ethnostate” fuelled by political rhetoric and hate.

All of this paints a bleak picture: extremist ideas are slowly taking hold in Canada as adherents aim to leverage military training to spread cynicism in democratic institutions. Previous studies back this up.

Countering the threat

To deal with this complicated and changing threat, we need a whole society, integrated approach that includes reliable top-down enforcement and monitoring and proactive, bottom-up societal resilience.

To quickly disrupt and deter extremist groups, top-down actions are very important. To properly monitor, penetrate and break up violent extremist networks, law enforcement and security services like CSIS and the RCMP need more resources, updated laws and better co-ordination.

It’s also important for the Canadian Armed Forces and other security-sensitive organizations to have better screening processes to find and purge those with extremist ideas.

But law enforcement isn’t enough. For one, it could be seen as biased, which could lead to more radicalization. Bottom-up methods are just as important for long-term prevention.

We need programs that provide teachers, social workers, community leaders and families with the tools they need to spot early signs of radicalization and do something about it in a positive way.




Read more:
How not to counter the radical right


Dialogue, education

It’s important to teach people how to think critically, read the news to fight false information and learn about civic duties that stress democratic principles and diversity. This is especially critical to fight against rising hate-motivated crimes.

I am involved in a one such project. It’s called Extremism and Radicalization to Violence Prevention in Manitoba (ERIM). We strive to build resilient communities by creating awareness and early detection of radicalism.

Dialogue and education are paramount.

Canada can’t afford to wait for a disaster to happen before acting. It can’t let its soldiers — those tasked with protecting Canadians and Canada’s security — get caught up in right-wing extremism. They are a source of national pride and should remain so.

The Conversation

Kawser Ahmed has led a Public Safety project called Extremism and Radicalization to Violence Prevention in Manitoba (ERIM)

ref. Charges against Canadian Army members in anti-government terror plot raise alarms about right-wing extremism – https://theconversation.com/charges-against-canadian-army-members-in-anti-government-terror-plot-raise-alarms-about-right-wing-extremism-260778

Charges against Canadian Army members in anti-government terror plot raises alarms about right-wing extremism

Source: The Conversation – Canada – By Kawser Ahmed, Adjunct Professor at the Political Science department, University of Winnipeg

This week, the RCMP arrested four men in Québec, alleging they were attempting to create an anti-government militia.

The RCMP used the umbrella term “Ideologically Motivated Violent Extremism” to categorize the suspects. Essentially, this means the RCMP alleges they share violent right-wing ideologies. Their arrests raise questions about whether Canada’s problem with right-wing extremism is getting worse.

The group is accused of storing explosive devices, dozens of firearms and thousands of rounds of ammunition. The RCMP seized all of it, and the four suspects are due to appear in Québec City court next week. Three are charged with facilitating a terrorist activity, along with weapon-possession offences.

The suspects include active members of the Canadian Armed Forces, according to the RCMP. Given the allegations that they were planning terrorist attacks for an extremist militia, the inclusion of army personnel might not be surprising.

But it could represent a stark manifestation of a deeply troubling and accelerating trend: the rise of violent right-wing extremism and anti-government or anti-authority radicalization within western democracies. This is a shift dramatically exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic as many seized the opportunity to spread anti-government ideas based on restricted freedoms.

Raphaël Lagacé, one of the suspects charged by the RCMP.
(Instagram)

Canada not immune to violent movements

Canada often thinks it’s safe from violent movements, but it’s becoming more vulnerable. This is especially evident in places like Québec, where there has been ideological conflict in the past, including the massacre at a Québec mosque in January 2017.

However, the threat is also clear on a national level.

According to a Canadian intelligence report, far-right extremist groups actively recruit past and present members of the military and police.

There’s also a long-running pattern of militia activity in North America. Activities in the United States show how dangerous it is when violent ideologies spread.

This includes the nihilistic doctrine of accelerationism, which is a white-supremacist belief that the current state of society cannot be fixed and that the only way to repair it is to destroy and collapse the “system”.

There are versions of accelerationism on both the right and left.

The rise in right-wing extremism globally

The charges in Québec shine a spotlight on the global trend of rising right-wing extremism that has been worsening since 2016.

In the past decade, white supremacist, anti-government and militia groups have gained traction. That’s due in part to online echo chambers, growing political and social divisions and the rise and rapid spread of conspiracy theories.

The U.S. is the best and most immediate example. Groups like the Oath Keepers and Proud Boys are well-known, playing a significant role in the Jan. 6 insurrection at the U.S. Capitol. These groups are keen to recruit current and former military and law enforcement officers because they know how to handle weapons and use explosives.

In 2023, the FBI repeatedly said domestic violent extremism continues to pose a threat, especially racially or ethnically motivated extremists and anti-government groups.

Accelerationism is behind a lot of this violence. It underpins efforts to speed up the disintegration of society through targeted violence and technology, with the goal of starting a racial war or civil war to bring down liberal democratic institutions.

The Base is an example of this trend. It’s a multinational, trans-border white supremacist network that supports violence to create chaos.

But this is not just a North American problem. Before Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, far-right members of the Ukrainian Azov Regiment reportedly drew western extremists to their cause, many of whom were looking for paramilitary training, possibly to use against their own governments.

Canada: The Base, the ‘freedom convoy’

This global tide doesn’t leave Canada out. The arrests in Québec are the most recent and concerning example.

Patrik Mathews, a former Canadian Army reservist from Winnipeg, was involved in a well-known Canadian case that involved recruiting for The Base, as well as a plot to harm a journalist, Canadian investigative journalist Ryan Thorpe. His reports in the Winnipeg Free Press exposed Mathew’s membership in the The Base.

Mathew fled to the U.S. in 2019. The FBI subsequently arrested him and charged him with gun-related crimes and taking part in a riot at a Virginia protest. Mathew is now serving a long prison sentence for his part in what the FBI called a “neo-Nazi plot to instigate a race war in the United States.”

These examples clearly show how extremists work within national military systems to learn tactical capabilities.

The so-called “freedom convoy” occupation of Ottawa in 2022 also showed troubling connections between radicalism and some parts of the Canadian Armed Forces.

Investigations found numerous active and former Army members were either actively involved with the convoy or donated a lot of money. Some were found to have posted extreme anti-government views online. Some Army members are also vulnerable to the right-wing ideologies of a “white-ethnostate” fuelled by political rhetoric and hate.

All of this paints a bleak picture: extremist ideas are slowly taking hold in Canada as adherents aim to leverage military training to spread cynicism in democratic institutions. Previous studies back this up.

Countering the threat

To deal with this complicated and changing threat, we need a whole society, integrated approach that includes reliable top-down enforcement and monitoring and proactive, bottom-up societal resilience.

To quickly disrupt and deter extremist groups, top-down actions are very important. To properly monitor, penetrate and break up violent extremist networks, law enforcement and security services like CSIS and the RCMP need more resources, updated laws and better co-ordination.

It’s also important for the Canadian Armed Forces and other security-sensitive organizations to have better screening processes to find and purge those with extremist ideas.

But law enforcement isn’t enough. For one, it could be seen as biased, which could lead to more radicalization. Bottom-up methods are just as important for long-term prevention.

We need programs that provide teachers, social workers, community leaders and families with the tools they need to spot early signs of radicalization and do something about it in a positive way.




Read more:
How not to counter the radical right


Dialogue, education

It’s important to teach people how to think critically, read the news to fight false information and learn about civic duties that stress democratic principles and diversity. This is especially critical to fight against rising hate-motivated crimes.

I am involved in a one such project. It’s called Extremism and Radicalization to Violence Prevention in Manitoba (ERIM). We strive to build resilient communities by creating awareness and early detection of radicalism.

Dialogue and education are paramount.

Canada can’t afford to wait for a disaster to happen before acting. It can’t let its soldiers — those tasked with protecting Canadians and Canada’s security — get caught up in right-wing extremism. They are a source of national pride and should remain so.

The Conversation

Kawser Ahmed has led a Public Safety project called Extremism and Radicalization to Violence Prevention in Manitoba (ERIM)

ref. Charges against Canadian Army members in anti-government terror plot raises alarms about right-wing extremism – https://theconversation.com/charges-against-canadian-army-members-in-anti-government-terror-plot-raises-alarms-about-right-wing-extremism-260778

Après Dune, Denis Villeneuve s’attaque à James Bond : à quoi ressemblera son 007 ?

Source: The Conversation – in French – By William Proctor, Associate Professor in Popular Culture, Bournemouth University

Le Québécois Denis Villeneuve réalisera le prochain James Bond. (Wiki Commons/Canva), CC BY-SA

La franchise James Bond est en pause depuis quatre ans, à la suite du départ de Daniel Craig dans le rôle de 007 dans Mourir peut attendre. Une querelle juridique entre les producteurs de Bond, Michael G. Wilson et Barbara Broccoli, et Amazon Studios a abouti à une impasse et la production d’un nouveau film de Bond est restée dans les limbes.

Néanmoins, les spéculations vont bon train quant à l’identité du futur interprète du super-espion créé par Ian Fleming (le dernier acteur à avoir été associé au rôle est l’ancien Spider-man Tom Holland).

Lorsque l’on a appris, en février 2025, qu’Amazon MGM (Amazon a racheté MGM en 2021) était devenu le nouveau gardien de Bond, les critiques et le public ont exprimé leur inquiétude — et le mot est faible. Beaucoup craignaient que Jeff Bezos soit plus intéressé par la stimulation de l’adhésion à Amazon Prime en multipliant les produits dérivés et les produits sous license.

Cependant, l’annonce, la semaine dernière, de la nomination du Québécois Denis Villeneuve en tant que réalisateur du 26e film de Bond a été perçue comme une décision stratégique forte. Il s’agit d’une déclaration d’intention qui ambitionne de faire d’Amazon MGM le nouveau bastion de la franchise Bond.

L’annonce positionne la nouvelle ère de Bond comme un exercice prestigieux dirigé par « un maître du cinéma », et non par un simple artisan expérimenté. Villeneuve s’était déjà vu offrir l’opportunité de réaliser Mourir peut attendre, mais a refusé le rôle en raison de son engagement dans les films Dune.


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En nommant Villeneuve, Amazon a réussi à faire basculer le débat public. Villeneuve est « bien plus qu’un technicien de l’image », a écrit Peter Bradshaw, critique de cinéma du Guardian. « C’est un auteur de classe alpha, au même titre que Christopher Nolan. »

D’autres critiques ont souligné sa rare capacité à « combiner l’élan des superproductions (et les ventes de billets) avec les sensibilités plus fines et plus nuancées d’un cinéaste toujours soucieux de ralentir, de creuser des personnages et des thèmes ».

Si Sam Mendes, réalisateur de 007 Skyfall (2012) et de Spectre (2015), a bénéficié d’un statut artistique, Villeneuve représente autre chose : un nom de marque, souvent considéré comme un auteur à part entière.

Villeneuve parle de son amour pour Bond.

Depuis ses débuts dans le cinéma québécois à son arrivée à Hollywood avec Prisoners (2013), mettant en vedette Hugh Jackman et Jake Gyllenhaal, Villeneuve a accumulé une filmographie d’un éclectisme impressionnant.

Il a prouvé qu’il était aussi à l’aise dans les films policiers réalistes (Sicario, 2015) et le cinéma surréaliste dont David Lynch serait fier (Enemy, 2013), que dans la science-fiction (L’arrivée, 2016, Blade Runner 2049, 2017, et les films Dune, 2021 et 2024).

Le Bond de Villeneuve

Bien que Sicario soit le film le plus proche, en termes de genre, des films de Bond, établissant Villeneuve comme un réalisateur capable de tourner des séquences d’action de manière experte, il est néanmoins difficile à ce stade de conceptualiser ce que pourrait être un film de Bond signé Villeneuve.

Certains critiques ont suggéré que le parcours professionnel du réalisateur, aussi éclectique soit-il, pourrait ne pas être de bon augure pour Bond. Benjamin Svetkey, critique de cinéma au Hollywood Reporter, par exemple, s’inquiète du fait que le « cinéma lugubre et méditatif » de Villeneuve manque cruellement d’humour — ce qui pourrait être fatal pour 007. « Une certaine dose d’esprit et de clins d’œil est essentielle pour le personnage », affirme-t-il.

Amazon MGM et Villeneuve n’en sont qu’à leurs débuts. Pour l’instant, il n’y aurait pas encore de traitement, de scénario, de scénariste et, plus important encore, d’acteur désigné pour le rôle. Quoi qu’il en soit, le 26e film de Bond sera probablement une refonte radicale qui effacera (à nouveau) l’ardoise après le sort réservé à 007 dans Mourir peut attendre.

Le choix de Villeneuve pour Bond ne sera probablement pas aussi caricatural que l’incarnation de Pierce Brosnan.

Bien que Villeneuve ait déclaré qu’il avait l’intention d’honorer la tradition et que Bond était pour lui un « territoire sacré », la capacité de renouvellement et de réinvention du personnage a été la clé de la longévité de la franchise.

Comme l’affirment les sociologues Tony Bennett et Janet Woollacott dans leur étude fondamentale, Bond and Beyond, le personnage de Bond a, au cours des six dernières décennies, « été construit différemment à différents moments », avec « différents ensembles de préoccupations idéologiques et culturelles ».

Le type de film de Bond que Villeneuve réalisera dépendra donc en grande partie de l’histoire et de l’acteur qui sera désigné pour incarner le prochain James Bond. Il est peu probable que le public s’attende à un Bond pantomime comme Roger Moore, ou à un Bond avec une voiture invisible, comme Pierce Brosnan dans le caricatural Meurs un autre jour (2002). En entrevue, Villeneuve a choisi Casino Royale comme son 007 préféré. Mais il est également peu probable que le réalisateur se contente de reproduire servilement le passé.

La Conversation Canada

William Proctor ne travaille pas, ne conseille pas, ne possède pas de parts, ne reçoit pas de fonds d’une organisation qui pourrait tirer profit de cet article, et n’a déclaré aucune autre affiliation que son organisme de recherche.

ref. Après Dune, Denis Villeneuve s’attaque à James Bond : à quoi ressemblera son 007 ? – https://theconversation.com/apres-dune-denis-villeneuve-sattaque-a-james-bond-a-quoi-ressemblera-son-007-260863

Too Much: Lena Dunham’s love letter to London, romance and the messiness of being a woman

Source: The Conversation – UK – By Jane Steventon, Course Leader, BA (Hons) Screenwriting; Deputy Course Leader & Senior Lecturer, BA (Hons) Film Production, University of Portsmouth

When HBO launched Lena Dunham’s Girls in 2012, it followed shows such as Buffy (1997-2003), Sex and the City (1998-2004) and Gossip Girl (2007-2012), which had all set a standard of shiny, sanitised female representation that was both attractive and palatable to a wide audience.

The grubby realism of Dunham’s New York twentysomethings, on the other hand, offered a surprising authenticity for some. But for others it was too messy, too white, too privileged and too authored around Dunham’s own life.

Although younger characters are often categorised by self-absorption and poor judgment, the “realness” of Girls was still challenging for many viewers. In particular they struggled with Dunham’s own character, Hannah Horvath, an aspiring writer frequently making personal and professional mistakes. She made for an unlikely – and often unlikable – heroine.


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Much attention was also paid to Hannah’s nudity, which proved to be a talking point each season. Dunham is known for her bold and positive attitude to her body, which clearly does not conform to standard Hollywood beauty types. But this reaction to Hannah’s frequent nakedness was ultimately highlighted as misogynistic by the creative powers behind the series such as producer Judd Apatow and co-writer Jenni Konner, as well as Dunham herself.

The same critics may have similar problems with Too Much. Though fresh 20-something protagonist, Jessica is played with gusto by TikTok star Megan Stalter, not Dunham herself. She’s known for her scene-stealing performance in comedy-drama Hacks (2021-).

Too Much is still clearly written by Dunham. Jess’s relocation from NYC to London echoes her own move to the UK in 2021, where she met and married the Peruvian-British musician Luis Felber and settled in north London.

The pair have co-created this “love letter to London”, with Dunham directing and and Felber providing the original music. The story takes in London pubs, creative agencies, Notting-Hill-the-movie aspirations and council-estate realities.

Growing pains

As Jess starts work in a London media agency, helmed by an excitable Richard E. Grant, she meets cerebral indie musician Felix (played convincingly and charmingly by Will Sharpe). Their instant connection means that Jess is thrust back into the world of dating, with all the Instagram anxiety and breakup PTSD that her last relationship produced.

The tone is at once fresh and frivolous, but episode one feels contrived at times with the creaky set-up of post-relationship life and relocation.

The familial scenes are the most enjoyable, with Dunham calling in all her celebrity cameo favours, including herself as Jessica’s mother (she snaffles some of the show’s best lines), and Rita Wilson playing her own mother. The small but mighty Rhea Pearlman grabs the great-grandmother role with gusto, flirting salaciously with Jess’s paramour while dispensing wicked wisecracks with bone-dry humour.

As the story develops, so does the sophistication and thoroughbred quality of Dunham’s writing and directing. Glorious moments of obsession with skin, taste and touch in the early days of a relationship are convincingly conveyed by credible and well-crafted moments of intimacy, both physical and intellectual.

As Jessica and Felix navigate the inevitable ups-and-downs of togetherness (dinner parties, red-flag paranoia and an unrequited “I love you”), Dunham reflects on love’s tumultuous and terrifying roller-coaster via brilliant dialogue and meaningful visual storytelling.

A particularly thought-provoking moment of direction comes in the form of a long take at the end of episode three, where the duo cosy up together, ready for sleep, in silent closeness. Jess listens to music on headphones, potentially excluding Felix, but the inference is of acceptance and tenderness – a reassuring sign of potential longevity.

The pitfalls on the road to love are frequently revealed in flashback from Jessica’s past relationship with Zev (Michael Zegen), who has moved on with a new partner. We go from the “meet-cute” and early days of infatuation between Jess and Zev, steadily giving way to less and less tolerance and emotional intimacy, until finally the betrayal with the new love becomes clear.

Capitalising on the anxieties induced by social media, Dunham has Jess obsessively watching Zev’s new love Wendy (Emily Ratajkowski) on Instagram, where every desirable detail of her life plays out in perfection. When Wendy broadcasts the inevitable proposal on Instagram Live, Jess is sent spiralling and decides to flee to London.

As the series progresses, Dunham’s goals become clearer and echo those of Girls. Both shows explore what it means to be “too much” – an accusation that many strong, ambitious and focused women have experienced.

Being too much, it turns out, may be not such a bad thing. As Felix remarks at the close of episode four, after one of their first clashes, “too much” is not necessarily an insult – it can be a way of describing someone who is remarkable. It’s something that Dunham clearly believes – and wants us all to believe – about the tumultuous and chaotic experience of growing up.

Too Much is a hopeful paean to womanhood, a declaration that messiness, failure and fear are all part of becoming a woman just as much as joy, love and intimacy. This show inspires and engages the more it reveals of its flawed and fallible protagonist amid the melting pot of London that Dunham so clearly adores.

The Conversation

Jane Steventon does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

ref. Too Much: Lena Dunham’s love letter to London, romance and the messiness of being a woman – https://theconversation.com/too-much-lena-dunhams-love-letter-to-london-romance-and-the-messiness-of-being-a-woman-260528

We’re hiring: Culture & Society Editor

Source: The Conversation – Canada – By Kim Honey, CEO|Editor-in-Chief, The Conversation Canada

The Conversation Canada is looking for a Culture & Society editor for a 10-month contract position. (Sandra Seitamaa/Unsplash)

The Conversation Canada is seeking a dynamic and thoughtful Culture & Society Editor with a background in critical race scholarship to join our editorial team. This remote, full-time, 10-month contract position is ideal for an experienced editor who is passionate about shaping public discourse through rigorous, accessible journalism.

As the Culture & Society Editor, you will work closely with academics from across Canada, and sometimes globally, to commission, edit and publish articles that explore the intersections of culture, identity, race, media, politics and society. You will play a key role in ensuring our coverage reflects a diversity of voices and perspectives, particularly those grounded in critical race theory, decolonial thought, Indigenous studies and other transformative frameworks that challenge dominant narratives.

Your responsibilities will include identifying timely and relevant story ideas, working collaboratively with academics to develop their ideas into clear, compelling content and upholding The Conversation Canada’s editorial standards of evidence-based, non-partisan journalism. You will also help expand our network of contributors from equity-deserving communities and ensure inclusive representation in our content, and will work closely and collaboratively with team members to publish stories in a timely fashion.

This role offers the opportunity to influence national conversations by bringing scholarly expertise into the public sphere, especially on matters of racial justice, cultural expression and societal transformation.

DEADLINE FOR APPLICATIONS: August 5, 2025

The ideal candidate will have:

  • A degree in the humanities, social sciences or journalism
  • Demonstrated experience in editing
  • A strong grasp of current debates in race, identity, culture and power
  • Excellent editorial judgment
  • A network of academic and news contacts
  • An understanding of audience development, including SEO practices, web analytics, social media and newsletter engagement
  • Strong organizational skills, with an ability to edit to daily deadlines, manage multiple tasks and work as part of a collaborative team
  • Care and attention to detail
  • Bilingualism is an asset
  • Must be based in Canada

About The Conversation Canada

The Conversation Canada is a successful news startup in its eighth year of operation, which has a French-language sister site, La Conversation, in Quebec. It is a unique collaboration between academics and professional journalists, and we belong to a global network with eight other editions covering Africa, Australia, Brazil, France, Indonesia, New Zealand, the U.K. and the U.S. The Conversation Canada has editors in Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver and Victoria, and we offer a friendly working environment with a passionate and mission-driven team.

How to apply

Please send applications, including a cover letter, CV, three writing and/or editing samples and three story ideas to Kim Honey at kim.honey@theconversation.com and Lee-Anne Goodman at lee-anne.goodman@theconversation.com.

Please note only candidates under consideration will be contacted.

We are committed to diversity and building an inclusive environment for people of all backgrounds and ages. We encourage members of traditionally underrepresented communities to apply, including women, people of colour, Indigenous Peoples, LGBTQ+ people and people with disabilities.

The Conversation

ref. We’re hiring: Culture & Society Editor – https://theconversation.com/were-hiring-culture-and-society-editor-260789

How M&S responds to its cyber-attack could have a serious impact on its future – and its customers

Source: The Conversation – UK – By Aybars Tuncdogan, Reader in Digital Innovation and Information Security, King’s College London

raymond orton/Shutterstock

The cyber-attack on Marks & Spencer will lead to an estimated £300 million hit to the company’s profits this year. It now aims to have online shopping at the store back to normal by August, more than three months after IT systems were compromised.

Fans of M&S clothing and food will be relieved after all of the uncertainty. But that level of uncertainty, as well as the huge cost, is surely a sign that big retailers, which millions of people rely on, need to change how they think about – and invest in – cybersecurity.

It has to be an absolute priority. After all, few marketing strategies or HR initiatives can save a company £300 million in just six weeks. But perhaps a more sophisticated cybersecurity department could have done just that.

To be fair, M&S faced a relatively rare, high-impact ordeal. Most cyber-attacks of this nature don’t affect customers so directly, and much of the recovery typically happens behind the scenes.

But M&S shoppers saw online orders collapse, contactless payments fail and refunds, gift cards and loyalty points not functioning. Disruption in stock-management and warehousing led to empty shelves and food waste.

On June 27, M&S issued a public apology and a £5 digital gift card to affected customers. But research suggests that the most important element of keeping customers onside is the quality of the recovery process, and whether normal service is eventually resumed.

To get back to normal service, it is possible that a ransom was paid to the cyber attackers, but M&S has refused to confirm or deny this. (One survey found that many organisations hit by cyber attacks agreed to pay a ransom – and then suffered a subsequent breach, often from the very same culprits.)

But even when normal service returns, when hackers steal customer data, as they did with M&S, research suggests that this information is often reused by criminals in identity theft and phishing. A study even found that victims of data breaches are more likely to have mortgage applications denied.

From what we know about the breach at M&S, it seems that the cyber-attackers simply used a phishing technique to get the support desk of a third-party contractor to reset the password of an admin-level account. That said, although in this case the main vulnerability was human, the lesson to be learnt here is that sometimes just one vulnerability can shake the whole system to its core.

This is why business owners need to think of cybersecurity not just as a tedious and inconvenient IT issue, but as a core function of the business. Otherwise, as the M&S case illustrates, it is simply not possible for the rest of the corporate structure to operate.

Testing times

So cybersecurity targets must be incorporated into every department to ensure collective defence. And organisations also need to stress-test the different aspects of their systems.

That could be checking on human responses, but it should also include technology (like a vulnerability in the web server), physical barriers (a poorly secured server room door) and HR procedures (failure to revoke ex-employee access).

Laptop in use with with graphic of padlock and security images.
Lock down your laptop.
Thapana_Studio/Shutterstock

These lines of defence have to be stress-tested regularly and from multiple angles, rather than being considered an annual checkbox activity for compliance.

Scenario-based tests – essentially a cyber fire-drill — such as internal threat simulations and response exercises, can provide useful insights into an organisation’s readiness to detect, respond to and recover from cyber-attacks.

It’s also important that organisations learn to communicate clearly once a breach occurs. Research into responses to data breaches suggests that any backlash is sharper when the company seems to be trying to hide the breach, which may later be publicised by the criminals instead.

Consumers should also remember that they are not powerless. We may not be able to prevent a data breach, but all of us can help to stop attackers from infiltrating our online worlds by something as simple as not re-using the same passwords.

By remaining sceptical, we can prevent attackers from using the information they stole to phish us later. And by thinking carefully about what personal data we share with companies, we can reduce the impact of future breaches.

The Conversation

Aybars Tuncdogan does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

ref. How M&S responds to its cyber-attack could have a serious impact on its future – and its customers – https://theconversation.com/how-mands-responds-to-its-cyber-attack-could-have-a-serious-impact-on-its-future-and-its-customers-260429

From Kabul to the catwalk – the surprising global history behind fashion’s fur revival

Source: The Conversation – UK – By Magnus Marsden, Professor of Social Anthropology, University of Sussex

The winter season of 2024-25 marked a resurgence of fur clothing – both faux and real – in fashion across Europe and North America. Shearling jackets and embroidered “Penny Lane coats” featured widely in reports on the latest fashion trends. Vintage fur coats are also back in vogue.

To many, the resurgence came as a surprise. The anti-fur movement, especially influential in the 1980s, continues to shape perceptions of fur. In the 2010s, cities including New York and Los Angeles banned the use of fur to make clothes. The UK meanwhile banned the farming of fur-bearing animals, and, alongside the EU, has committed itself to legislating against all fur imports.

Just last year the town of Worthing, in England, debated whether their mayor should wear ceremonial robes trimmed with fur or not. Despite these trends, many young people have embraced the renewed trend of wearing real fur.

Some clothes made from animal skins became popular during the counter-cultural movement of the 1960s, but historically, fur has mostly marked status, wealth and luxury. Today, many critics interpret fur’s return to fashion as a cultural expression of rightwing politics.


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Fur is prominent in the “boom boom” fashion trend, which emphasises excess and “male-coded values”. It has been described by fashion journalists as “over-the-top and unashamed about its own greed and lack of wokeness”.

Fur clothing is a reminder of the moral tensions between need and desire, and luxury and excess. In addition to being inter-generational, these debates are also about gender. For much of the 20th century, fur coats symbolised femininity, erotic power and class position in the west. But by the 1980s, advertising campaigns depicted women who wore fur as either stupid and unthinking or thinking and unspeakably cruel, leading many to jettison it.

Anti-fur protests were held across the US in 1994.

Fur’s return to fashion has injected old debates with new significance. Some young people are willing to wear faux fur because it does not involve killing animals. But others argue that, because it is made from synthetic material, faux fur is actually more environmentally damaging and prefer to wear the real thing. They claim that wearing vintage fur is a form of “sustainable consumption” but are challenged by those who argue that this fashion trend ultimately justifies killing animals to make clothes.

The boom boom trend is said to embody a contemporary expression of 1980s “conspicuous consumerism”, but in an era of economic austerity the adoption of fur by young people suggests the clothes they wear identify their desires rather than their financial reality.

A global history of fur

Today, as in the 1980s, the perspectives, interests and experiences of non-Europeans are often unheard in debates around fur. A decline of fur-bearing animal populations in North America and Siberia from the early 19th century, led to a global expansion in fur farming.




Read more:
How central Asian Jews and Muslims worked together in London’s 20th-century fur and carpet trade


From the 1850s, for example, Central Asia supplied furs to Europe and North America. Local artisans cured the pelts of karakul lambs – a native breed – to yield a rich and glossy fur. In central and south Asia, men of high status wore karakul hats; in Europe and America, they were mostly used to make women’s coats.

After the Russian revolution of 1917, many nomadic and semi-nomadic pastoralists, who raised sheep and other animals, left central Asia and moved with their flocks to neighbouring Afghanistan. The trade in karakul fur grew in the country, and foreign currency reserves came to depend on lambskins sold at auctions in London and New York.

In the 1960s, sheepskin coats made in Afghanistan – known as “Afghans” – became popular in the west, being worn by stars including Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones. The 1969 British edition of Vogue featured an interview with an icon of “oriental chic”, the “beautiful, dashing, intelligent, adventurous” Afghan socialite, Safia Tarzi, who lived in Paris, and ran a boutique clothing shop in Kabul.

The Afghan coat enjoyed a resurgence in 2000 having been worn by the character Penny Lane (Kate Hudson) in the film Almost Famous.




Read more:
Friday essay: how ‘Afghan’ coats left Kabul for the fashion world and became a hippie must-have


In the 1980s, the anti-fur campaign contributed to a declining market for karakul. For decades, rumours of Central Asian shepherds extracting lambs from the wombs of sheep to ensure a steady yield of delicate pelts had circulated. Moral opposition to the practice was not confined to the west.

During my research on globally dispersed activists, intellectuals and merchants from Afghanistan, a man from Afghanistan, now based in London, told me that his father banned his family from wearing karakul hats because sheep and their lambs were treated cruelly.

In the 1990s, civil war destroyed much of the infrastructure of the karakul industry in Afghanistan, but a trickle of pelts reached auction houses located in Frankfurt, Copenhagen and Helsinki.

In the 2000s, international development organisations attempted to revive the trade, though sales never returned to anyway near the levels of the 1970s. By the 2010s, families in northern Afghanistan struggling economically opted to send sons to travel illegally to Turkey to find work as shepherds for commercially oriented Turkish farmers.

Promotional videos of fashion houses occasionally touch on the Penny Lane coat’s ties to Afghanistan, but media coverage of fur fashions rarely address its historical connections to central Asia.

The Conversation

Magnus Marsden received funding from the Arts and Humanities Research Council including for the research upon which this article is based.

ref. From Kabul to the catwalk – the surprising global history behind fashion’s fur revival – https://theconversation.com/from-kabul-to-the-catwalk-the-surprising-global-history-behind-fashions-fur-revival-256382